Adventure to Teriberka — A Village in the Russian Arctic
On July 31 1996, Yanek from Belarus, Angela from St. Petersburg and I traveled overland by bus from Murmansk to the remote village of Teriberka. We went to visit our friend Marina who was a student we met in Murmansk. These two areas are circled in red on the map below. The distance is a bit more than 100 KM or 60 miles, but it took 5 hours by bus on dirt roads! Though it was summer, we could still see patches of snow on the ground! Most of the area in between these two places is tundra. There is nothing growing higher than an inch or so from the ground due to the permafrost just beneath the soil.
In the year 2000 a Russian submarine sank not far from where I lived. The city next to Murmansk called Severomorsk is a Russian Navy base. Only Russian military and the local town’s people have permission to enter this city. And believe it or not, even the tiny village of Teriberka is part of a military restricted zone. I didn’t know that before arrival. On the 3rd day border guards came to Marina’s apartment and told me I had until the next morning to leave or be incarcerated!
A map showing the relationship of this area to the rest of the world. You’re probably thinking, “What’s so special about that village anyway?” It’s special to me because it probably is the most remote area I’ve ever been in the world — a place only missionaries and National Geographic people would want to visit!
![](https://i0.wp.com/jamesjpn.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/1Mar20_04.jpg?resize=635%2C432)
A view of Teriberka from Marina’s apartment! It was the most miserable looking place I have ever been to in the world!
![Belarussian Yanek in front of a typical Teriberka dwelling. The blue sign above the door says, "Welcome."](https://i0.wp.com/jamesjpn.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/yan.jpg?resize=650%2C471)
Belarussian Yanek in front of a typical Teriberka dwelling. The blue sign above the door says, “Welcome”.
![Yakek, Angela and Teriberka resident Marina near her apartment.](https://i0.wp.com/jamesjpn.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/yan-angela-marina.jpg?resize=620%2C429)
Yakek, Angela and Teriberka resident Marina near her apartment.
![Marina's daughter (right) with a friend on a hill overlooking the Barents Sea (part of the Arctic Ocean). It's August 1st but only 13 degrees Celsius (55F) and windy.](https://i0.wp.com/jamesjpn.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/two-girls.jpg?resize=650%2C470)
Marina’s daughter (right) with a friend on a hill overlooking the Barents Sea (part of the Arctic Ocean). It’s August 1st but only 13 degrees Celsius (55F) and windy.
There was nobody else on that beach except for the people with me! It was clean with no litter whatsoever which is unlike most Japanese beaches. Parts of it are rocky with very smooth large stones. Even in the summer the water is too cold to swim in without a wet suit.
![Me with Yanek and Angela toward the left on that same hill, August 1, 1996.](https://i0.wp.com/jamesjpn.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/me-yanik.jpg?resize=630%2C431)
Me with Yanek and Angela toward the left on that same hill, August 1, 1996.
![Yanek, friend Marina and Angela.](https://i0.wp.com/jamesjpn.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/by-the-sea.jpg?resize=352%2C480)
Yanek, friend Marina and Angela.
![Next day August 2! It warmed up to around 18C (70F)!](https://i0.wp.com/jamesjpn.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/warmday.jpg?resize=650%2C922)
Next day August 2! It warmed up to around 18C (70F)!
![Yanek on the same day, same area.](https://i0.wp.com/jamesjpn.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/yanik-warm-day.jpg?resize=600%2C439)
Yanek on the same day, same area.
![Yanek with Marina. There is not a paved road in the entire village.](https://i0.wp.com/jamesjpn.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/yanix-with-maria.jpg?resize=640%2C468)
Yanek with Marina. There is not a paved road in the entire village.
![In Marina's apartment. Notice the rug hung on the wall? This is very typical of Russian homes.](https://i0.wp.com/jamesjpn.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Marinas-apartment.jpg?resize=800%2C534)
In Marina’s apartment. Notice the rug hung on the wall? This is very typical of Russian homes. I think the photo was taken with a timer on the camera.
On the third day, two men who said they were government officials came to Marina’s apartment when I was there and asked me if I obtained permission to visit their area. I told them I didn’t know I needed permission. Marina told them I am an invited guest. The men said I was in a military area restricted to foreigners (especially Americans!) and that I needed permission. I didn’t see a single sign of any military activity at all! They told me to leave at the earliest opportunity and that I may be fined later. But there was no fine and nothing more came of it.